A Cuban victory – we managed to get some cash out from the bank this morning. A great start to the day. We set off at a reasonable time towards Cienfuegos – south west of Havana.

Pretty good National Highway – 3 lanes each way– hard to stay awake though while driving and avoiding occasional potholes big enough to swallow the car because the road is flat and dead straight for kilometers on end.

About 150km out of Havana we stumbled across the town of Australia – no joke. 

A dry, hot missable place with a small stall selling trinkets and beer but no coffee (which the Lonely Planet book had teased us about). We took some obligatory photos ………

…… and then set off on  a detour south to Playa Larga. This small beachside town looked pretty dry, hot and miserable but after too many hours in the car we decided to stop. Opening the car door we were met with 34 degree heat but also the sound of loud Cuban music and we wandered down to find an amazingly cool Caribbean beach full of locals having a great time.

We then drove along the coast to Playa Giron - previously known as The Bay of Pigs, famous as the landing site of the 1400 exiled Cuban mercenaries sent in by the USA on April 15, 1961 during the attempt to overthrow Fidel Castro. Castro, prewarned about the attack, easily defeated the invading force, strengthening his hero status in Cuba.

Playa Giron was a pretty unimpressive place but a needed stop for lunch. We found a local restaurant and the pizza looked good at $1.50 each so we sat down in the airconditioning. We are getting used to a Cuban trademark now - waiting. The pizza arrived about an hour later – but it was tasty. We made a quick trip through the local museum commemorating the Bay of Pigs fiasco – the propaganda was very entertaining but also a bit thought provoking - and then back on the road.

After driving for many kilometers over a red crusty road (I thought it was crushed seed pods from surrounding trees) we pulled over to have a photo stop at a beautiful Caribbean beach scene. We were quick to discover that the red crusty stuff on the bitumen was crushed crabs – my the millions. 

There were crabs everywhere - thickly coating pretty much everything in site. They are able to crawl up the walls of buildings and into the trees – pretty amazing. Jacqueline declined to go for a swim there!

We arrived in Cienfuegos late in the afternoon and after stopping to as.k about a dozen locals for directions (there are no street signs anywhere) we found our Casa Particulares. Casa’s are a Cuban specialty - private homes where locals rent out rooms in their houses for tourists – very much like B&Bs. 

When you pull up out the front they look like decrepit, run-down, abandoned dumps (mum seemed quite anxious) but we were met by Ibis and Pablo who showed us to very nice rooms – one for me and one for mum and Jacqueline. They were well appointed rooms (including aircon!) but there was only one bed in each. Mum and Jacqueline shared a double bed - Jacqueline slept like a log but I don’t think mum got much sleep………….

It has been REALLY hot and the beach beckoned for a swim. We set off to Playa Rancha Luna - about 15min along the coast - to a local beach for a swim. Best description is warm, salty, seaweed and stones - we are spoilt with our local beaches.

We had a nice walk through the town at dusk.

Dinner was arranged at a local family restaurant. A pothole ridden street with rundown house fronts and a small neon light identifying a long driveway to a restaurant – the sort of place we would never venture down on our own. The setting was unexpectedly superb, the food was similar – a real Cuban experience.

Charly has provided regular amusement including his literal discussions around swearing and insulting people in Spanish. Mum has learnt a few new phrases – I’m sure if you ask ,she will be delighted to fill you in – Thanks Charly!

Just in case you missed it the first time!!

Day 2 in Cuba was greeted by a beautiful sunrise. 

We then learned about the experience of incredible frustration. Charly had advised to not hire a car in advance but of course when he tried to source a hire car this morning there were none available. He and I set off on what ended up being a 4 hour saga with mum and Jacqueline staying at the hotel expecting us to be only gone for 30 minutes. In the end I sent Charly back to the hotel to find them while I waited for the car. It was quite touching to know that even at my age she had started to worry about me – thought I may have been kidnapped for ransom?? They eventually returned in a bright blue 1937 Ford convertible – built the year before mum was bornJ.

Eventually after multiple suggestions of “no worries I have a car for you” and “I will go now and get your car” (3 times), the man returned after a mysterious absence of over 90 minutes and gave me the car that had been parked out the front for the previous 4 hours!!!!!! We had to pay for the car in cash, which pretty much consumed all of our cash. We soon discovered there was no access to Visa today anywhere in the city, even from the Banks, and no suggestion of when that may change - so that will no doubt play out over the next few days!!

We eventually got on the road after midday. The ladies held their breath as I zipped around the chaotic city streets on the wrong side of the road – I have to admit I was pretty happy to get out alive whilst only turning the windscreen wipers on 3 times. So off we set on a belated road trip to Pinar del Rio.

It was about 200km west of Havana and is a very poor agricultural area which is famous for its rugged scenery and tobacco growing. Just before our destination of the town of Venales we stopped off at a local farmers home – Peter Goers (the aussie man mum and Cath met in Petra last year) is a regular Cuba visitor and had one day randomly stopped at his farm to say hi – they are now friends.

With no English and no warning the amazing farmer named Osbel took us for an amazing tour of his small tobacco farm.

before then inviting us into his home and making us some hand rolled cigars from the tobacco leaves in his drying hut.

They say a picture tells a thousand words!

Ah Stephen I have her on a string - you are so much yesterday's man!!!!

Osbel also showed us his coffee plants and the way they make coffee – unfortunately his wife was not home to make us a cup! We promised to return for dinner on the way back to Havana

On to Venales for a lunch of (you guessed it) ice cream and some roadside bananas, more failed attempts at cash from an ATM (the bank was closed) and a trip through a limestone cave just out of town.

Back to Osbel’s farm for dinner. Smoking a cigar must have increased mum’s appetite - she was hungry so ordered a whole chicken and then proceeded to eat it with her hands.

There was the most ridiculous amount of food for us, prepared by Osbel’s sister, as we sat on the porch overlooking the farmland. They seemed so excited we stopped in. All pretty amazing. We got to meet Osbel’s wife – Clarabel – no joke!

It was a long haul back to Havana – got back about 8.30pm and had to quickly dress in our finest for the Tropicana Show. It is an iconic Havana cultural event that has been running since 1939 – the year after mum was born) so I got us front row seats. It was a true spectacle made more bearable by the bottle of Havana Club rum given to each group.

I had enough rum to allow me to get up and dance with one of the well dressed young ladies.

Matt – you will be pleased to know we have found Jacqueline’s new favourite drink – she giggled happily all the way home (well after midnight).

We are off on a road trip to Cienfuegos for 1 night and then Trinidad for 2 nights before we come back to Havana for our final night. Not sure if or when we will next have internet access to post again.

Mexico City was fun but now for Cuba. We had an early start and the ever trusty Luis was waiting to take us to the airport long before the sun was up. We knew that we needed cash for Cuba but didn’t anticipate how difficult it would be to get cash at the Mexico City airport. No exchange services would accept cards and it was difficult to find an ATM – we easily filled in our time waiting for our plane.

It was a bit of a bumpy flight. Jacqueline looked quite pale as the flight descended and when we finally landed the passengers all clapped. A new experience that made me wonder if landing the plane intact was indeed a special event in Cuba?

Perfect planning continued when we exited from the immigration to find our guide Charly waiting for us.

Charly is a 27yo Cuban native who speaks excellent English, which he has taught himself. He dresses all in white as part of the interesting Yurbar religion he has joined. White clothes, white shoes and even a white man bag. He carries his own white mug because he is not allowed to drink out of a clear cup – quite interesting. He is a really nice guy, except for the occasional expletive ridden burst, and unlike Xavier (the Mexican guide) who couldn’t keep his hands off Jacqueline, Charly seems to be hands free.

The Hotel Nacional is pretty impressive on first sight. It is the place where Fidel Castro set up office after the revolution. We demonstrated our efficiency having our first Majito on the grass overlooking the ocean within about 5 minutes of arrival. 

The hotel efficiency however leaves a bit to be desired and the check in process and subsequent problem solving took quite some time – about 3 hrs!

We had a bit of a wander around the local Havana streets.

Then Charly took us to the most amazing local rooftop restaurant for a fantastic feed. Mum had a main and dessert and left nothing on her plate. She got a dessert under the premise she would share it with us but I couldn’t even get my spoon on the plate before she finished it up.

Matt - all good - Jacqueline having a great time but missing you all and hopes you are surviving with the kids OK

Dad - Mum is having a hoot - all is going well. Can't ring - phone system is hopeless and can't seem to face time - internet lets me post but I can't get through with face time and emails also difficult!

It is now 1am and too late for me to do todays blog BUT it is a cracker  - will try and get it up tomorrow so keep your eyes open.